Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Crag Profile: Morrison.

So a few weeks ago I was approached to write a crag profile on a crag of my choice.  Choosing the crag was easy, I would write about the crag that has shaped me as a climber, the contrived boulders of the Black Hole, and the boulders surrounding it in Morrison Colorado.  Most front range climbers tip their noses at the bouldering in Morrison for any number of reasons, I've heard people complain about it being too busy, or having a lot of contrivances, or that they don't like the setting, being right above the road.  However, I got my first taste of bouldering in Morrison, and really fell in love with the bouldering there.

The most notable sector in Morrison (excluding Matthew Winters Park) is the Black Hole.  The Black Hole is also where most of the hate for Morrison stems.  Its a huge cave that was painted black from people having bonfires under it and has every style of climbing all right next to each other.  The main problem, there's only like three open lines there, and then countless contrivances.  The three open lines are the warm-up, Breashears Crack, a notoriously hard V1, Center Route, a line straight up the center of the cave rated at V10, and Helicopter, rated at V5, but I just can't seem to be motivated enough to actually climb it.  Just left of the cave is an uphill trending spine with a smaller cave.  The main line here is the pumpfest Upper Wisdom, an awesome V3 with some old school techy climbing.  Those are the open lines, and they are all super fun (except Helicopter, Helicopter is polished).  However, if you can look past the locals screaming "Those feet aren't on for Cyto" mid burn, the contrived lines are some of the most fun climbing I've ever done.

Morrison holds a special place in my heart.  I had my first long term project at Morrison.  I've climbed my hardest at Morrison.  I've met some amazing locals, like a 70 year old dude who warms up on a V8 circuit. If you're in the area, definitely take the five minute hike up to the boulders and check em out.  With an approach like that, there really is no reason not to, and if the boulders don't fit you then make the fifty foot hike from your car to Willys Wings, or the bomb ice cream shop and grab some local grub.  If you stop by late afternoon on a warm December day, I'm sure you will meet some rad people that I guarantee you wouldn't find anywhere else.

Now for pictures, because I hate writing.


The center of the black hole, poor picture but it shows Center Route(V10) and Cytogrinder(V8) as well as part of the warm-up, Breashears(V1). 


Me working out the beta on Center Cyto (V10). 



Sean Field playing around on the Tendonitis Traverse (V5).